After closing out 2015 with a good race at Lookout Mtn 50, I
was looking forward to what I could possibly do in 2016. The first on the list
of Ultra’s for the year was the
Georgia Death Race (GDR). A race that is billed
at being one of the toughest in the South with some 40,000 feet of elevation
change and a race director that was sorry but not sorry about how that each
competitor was going to die. His attempt on humor was not appreciated by all,
but he was trying to market it as a tough race. So much so that the race is
advertised as 68 miles, but weeks before the race he decides that it may be a
little bit longer eventually giving it a total mileage of 72, but was perhaps
closer to 70.
I had signed up for this race under the peer pressure of
some other guys that I had been running with in training for Lookout. From
reading the race website and knowing that we would be going in the original
direction from Vogel State Park to Amicalola Falls, the logistics seemed good
for me. For in 2014 they started like at 5am so that the runners could catch
the sunrise on Coosa Bald, the highest point in the race. This means I would be
able to run the course in hopefully a decent time and then get back in time for
Sunday. However as time got closer I found out that the race would start at 8am
meaning that I may be a little short on time.
Knowing the difficulty and believing some of the hype I
decided to train by running as much vertical as I could. For the month of
January and February I had very fun runs that could be considered flat. Even on
my easy runs I was hunting hills. I even set aside some training days just to
focus on climbing, either by doing repeats up and down Lookout, or by mapping
out a long run that hit every long climb I could find. We had two group training
runs that were planned out to help us prepare for GDR. One was Oswald Dome
repeats and the other was a trip down to run the first 28 miles of the course.
Oswald Dome is the peak of Bean Mountain in the Cherokee National forest. The
trail takes you from the bank of the Hiawassee river up about 4 miles and well
over 2000ft. The problem is Oswald Dome Trail has several switchbacks. The
climb was long and sustained but the steepness was nothing as what would be the
“dragon spine” of the Duncan Ridge Trail (DRT). My true test of preparedness
would be the training run on the course.
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| Pre-Training Run with Sean Lawford Photo by Nate Holland |
A few guys (Holland, Baker, Lackey) were planning on going
up the night before to run the last 10 or so miles of the course, while I and a
couple others were going to go early in the morning and meet them for the first
28 miles. Well the other guys ended up having conflicts so I went by myself to
meet the other three. This was a pretty nerve racking run because of a couple
of the guys that I was going to be running with whom I consider elites. Both
Holland and Baker had won 50 mile trail races, both are lightning fast, and both
are very high on my list of runners that I admire. With the other guys that not
being able to run with us meant that I was either going to keep up with those two,
or they were going to be waiting on me all day. In the end, they were very
gracious and perhaps a little tired from their run and lack of sleep the night
before. I survived the training run and had a better idea of what I needed to
do to have a good day come GDR.
Day Before Death
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| David Horton! |
I left early Friday afternoon with fellow RIF Bill Baker to
go down to GA. Bill was going to be crewing his son, Franklin, for GDR. I
enjoyed sharing stories and hearing about his future plans and his advice for
VolState. Bill dropped me off at the cabin where I would be staying with the
Bakers, Hollands, and Lackeys. They were kind enough to let me crash on a futon
downstairs and share their prerace supper. We drove to the pre-race meeting and
kit check located at the
Amicalola Falls Lodge. Because of the remote nature of
this race and I believe in order for the NPS to permit it, each participant has
a required kit. I decided to use my UD PB Pack to carry the required space
blanket, whistle, headlamp (with back up), thermal shirt, warm hat/buff, and
weatherproof jacket. We were also going to be required to carry a railroad
spike (I still don’t understand how that plays in with the theme of death). I
had my mandatory stuffed checked and got my bid. We also were given a race
shirt, somehow I was down for a SMALL…after a little back and forth with the
lady at check in I received my size Large. The highlight of the pre race
meeting was recognizing
Ultra legend David Horton sitting two rows in front of
me. If you don’t know who he is then look him up. (He is the 2
nd man
to ever finish Barkley, winner of Hardrock 100, and former AT record holder).
It was a honor to get to meet him and to have a short conversation with him.
After Holland had his turn answering a few quick questions from Ash Walsh of
the new site
EastUltra.com, we were on our way back to the cabin to eat and get
ready for Saturday’s adventure.
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| Photo by Greg Gelmis |
Race Morning
I slept probably the best before a big race than I ever have
before. I woke up at 3 am thinking that it was past time to wake up but then
went back to sleep till right before my alarm went off at 5am. I showered,
collected my things, and made my way upstairs for breakfast (two cinnamon
crunch bagels). Franklin and Bill Baker and I headed out towards the race start
at about 6am. After a pit stop for gas and coffee for Bill we made it to the
race start for check-in and drop bag drop off. The scene before an ultra is one
of my favorites. There is the meeting of friends who only see each other at the
next ultra. There is the quiet crowd noise of fellow runners asking the same
questions for the 100th time, “Are you ready?” “What’s your plan for
today?” “Do you have a time goal?” “Is this your first?” “What are you fueling
on?” There is also the simple stillness before the start. You can search most
runners eyes and see they are mentally preparing themselves for what will most
definitely be more of a mental struggle than it will ever be a physical one.
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| GDR CREW |
I was surrounded by the “GDR Crew” minus 1. Corey had come
down with the flu just days before so he would not be running with us, however
he would be out on the course for moral support. We took a few pictures and all
joined the herd of runners awaiting our final instructions. Sean (Run Bum) told
some story about running at Everest Base Camp. I am sure it was meant to be
inspirational, but all of us were just waiting on the clock to strike 8am and
for him to say go. And just like that we were off heading down the road towards
the Coosa Loop trail in Vogel State park.
Vogel to White Oak Stomp (Mile 0-8)
The plan for today was to just coast as much as possible for
the first 28 miles. I was planning going easy and doing a lot of hiking. My
advantage is that I had run most of this route before and knew a little bit of
what to expect. I was running with 3 of the GDR crew: Jeremiah Lackey, Nick
Horvath, and Josh Cole. Once we got on to the trail Greg Gelmis of “
We Run”
everything was there taking pictures. Greg is absolutely amazing and have
enjoyed getting to see him at so many trail races. He probably averages at
least a half marathon of running for as many times as I saw him on the trail.
The Coosa Loop has a short little climb to a road crossing
to where it goes downhill for a quick 2 miles. Somewhere along the way I lost
Nick and Josh. I was now leading a train of a few runners including Jeremiah. The
pace was comfortable, I was just letting gravity work and was trying not to
work at all. At about 3.5 miles in we were about to start the largest climb of
the day, but certainly not the hardest. Before starting the climb I took a pit
stop and Jeremiah ran on. The next 4 miles were all climbing to the top of
Coosa bald. The trail was beautiful and so was the scenery. During the training
run we were in a cloud the whole time, however now the skies were pretty clear
and it was even a little bit warm as we climbed to the highest point in the
race (aprox. 4200 ft). While hiking up I had passed several other runners and spent
some time with Sean Lawford. He kept telling me over and over again that I
should take it easy because I will want to have legs to run with when I get to
mile 41, when the trail opened up to fire roads. After cresting Coosa we turned
right on to the DRT, we would be on this for the 15 or so miles and it
immediately got steep. Plummeting down the single track I was being passed by
some of the same people I had passed earlier climbing. Downhill is not my
strong suit. I always feel uneasy. Soon I arrived to the first aid station,
White Oak Stomp. I refilled my bottles that had had Tailwind in them, one with
water and the other with Gatorade. I grabbed a hand full of chips and two
cookies and quickly made my way down the trail.
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| Early Miles with Nick and Josh Picture by Greg Gelmis |
White Oak Stomp to Fish Gap (Miles 8-15.5)
I had 7.5 miles till my next aid station. One of the best
ways to tackle an Ultra is aid station to aid station. You don’t start the race
to run 72 miles. You start the race to run the 8 or so miles to first aid
station, then you run to the next and so on. I was now fully on the DRT a trail
known for its steepness. Most trail builders use switchbacks to climb or
descend ridges those that built the DRT added very few switchbacks, I think in
the whole 15 miles I may have counted 2 or 3. The rest was straight up and down.
There was section that we had run in training that I was not looking forward
to. We had stopped at Mulky Gap to filter water on our training run and when we
continued we thought we were following the trail up the ridge. This trail was
so steep it was one of the first times that I thought about quitting the climb
part of the way through and just giving up. Thankfully that was not the trail
we took in the course. Instead we took a trail to the left that went up the
ridge a little better way. One of the cool things about this section is that
just a week or so ago the NPS had done a prescribed burn. So much of the
undergrowth was charred away and made for really cool scenery. It was somewhere
along this section that I hit my first hints of struggle. For some reason the
course leaves the DRT and starts bushwhacking up to Fish Gap. I did not enjoy
this romp in the woods. I ran into a stick that snapped when my chest hit it. I
was just ready to be back on the actually trail. It was about that time that I
heard familiar voices cutting up behind me, it was Nick and Josh and they were
just what I needed to feel better.
Fish Gap to Skeenah (Miles 15.5-21.5)
Upon leaving the Fish Gap Aid station, we as a trio of Nooga
runners continued to go up and down the DRT. Nick and Josh let me lead and we
would all power hike the very steep inclines sometimes with hands on knees and
then casually descend the steep other side. The conversation was fun as we
talked about the day’s adventure and other random things. Then as we started to
climb again the conversation would stop until the next downhill. At some point
I looked down at my watch and the trail ahead of us and tried to do some math.
I knew that we should be making the turn off the DRT to Skeenah Gap around mile
20. So I told the guys, “This should be the last steep climb, then we will see
the sign for the Benton McKaye Trail (BMT).” Well sure enough it wasn’t the
last climb, in fact there was a couple more climbs left. They were beginning to
get a little annoyed with my prognostication of the end of the climbs. Then I
promised them that this climb was the last…and thankfully it was!
We turned right onto the only out and back section of the
course. It was 1.5 miles downhill which means 1.5 miles up hill on the back. The
best thing about an out and back if there is anything, is the opportunity to
see other runners. You get to encourage them and they get to encourage you. On the
way down we saw Sarah who was another Chattanooga runner and who was currently
sitting first female but we had no idea at the time. She went on to get third female,
amazing! We also saw Jeremiah, who I hadn’t seen in about 17 miles. He was
making his way up the hill and we all yelled “Jeremiah!!!!” As we descended and
got closer to Skeenah Gap the temperature was rising. By the time we got to the
aid station it was warm enough to dump a couple bottles of water all over my
head and neck. I refueled and started hiking up back towards the top.
Skeenah to Point Bravo (Miles 21.5-28)
I left
Nick and Josh at the aid station but told them to catch up to me. They did
about the time we joined the main BMT again. We were now through with the DRT
and the “Dragon’s Spine” and on to a trail that had switchbacks. The three of
us moved well hiking up and cruising down. Upon the long descent into “Point
Bravo” at the Hwy 60 we were all running strong but we were getting tired and
it was still hot. We could hear the crowd of people at the aid station which
was also a crew access point. About 100 yards or so before getting there we saw
a photographer sitting at the base of the tree, to our surprise, behind the camera
lens was Corey! It was wonderful to see him out there and to have his encouragement.
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| Sitting in the elf seat Picture by Katy Holland |
Point Bravo Aid Station was a circus. There were people
everywhere. The aid station workers were quick to grab my dropbag and fill up
my bottles. Nick and Josh had crew there so I knew we would be there a little
longer than the other aid stations. I decided to take a seat and go through my
drop bag and refill my bottles with Tailwind. I found Dan, Marylou Corino’s
husband, and he had what I assume was a camp chair that was made for elfin
people. Not the elves that are tall like in Lord of the Rings but more like the
elves that live in trees and make cookies. I sat down on this very uncomfortable
chair and downed two packs of applesauce and some other treats. I looked across
the road and saw Nick talking to his wife Carmen and he looked like he was
about ready to go, I think it had been about 8 mins or so. I went to get my
bottles topped off and told Nick that I was going to head on and that I would
probably see him soon, however I was about to spend the next 44 miles mainly by
myself.
Point Bravo to Sapling Gap (Miles 28-33)
After crossing HWY 60, I continued along the BMT. I wasn’t
running any right now and I was feeling the heat and humidity. I wasn’t feeling
the best. I had a sub sandwich that I took a little bite off hoping some
calories would make me feel better, but I could barely chew the small bite. It
tasted gross. I chewed on the small bit for what seemed like 3 minutes till I
became disgusted and spit it out then threw the rest of the sandwich in the
woods, maybe some bear had a good lunch. I hiked on and noticed a guy moving up
quickly behind me. He told me that I should hurry up or I might not make cut
offs. I thought he was out of his mind, Cutoffs?! I was way ahead of cutoffs
and I didn’t plan on those being an issue today. But I let him pass and I
continued my death march. I thought that any minute Nick and Josh would catch
up to me and give me the boost I needed. I was in a low. They happen in ultras.
I knew that it would go away, but at the same time I wasn’t enjoying it. I
finally decided that maybe some music would help. I got out my headphones and
hit shuffle. I decided to run a few steps during the chorus of a song, the first
running steps I had taken since coming into Point Bravo. I soon was feeling
better and suddenly had a realization that I was going to finish this race. I
was behind schedule by about 1hr but I was going to finish it. Even though I still
hadn’t finished half of the race I started to get emotional knowing that I was
going to do it. This was course was going to be a true test of how my ultra
year was going to turn out and I was going to pass this test, even if I had 40
miles or so to go.
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| Crossing the Taccoa Swinging Bridge Picture by Greg Gelmis |
Sapling Gap to Long Creek (Miles 33-41)
I don’t remember much about the next section of trail from
Sapling Gap to Long Creek. I remember that it was climb, hike, run, hike,
climb, hike, run. There were two guys that I could see ahead of me every so
often and I knew I was gaining on them. The trail was beautiful and still had a
lot of ups and downs. But I knew that I was finishing this joker and that I was
going to move with purpose. The entire time I was out there, I never just
walked I always walked with purpose or hiked with purpose. I saw a fire up
ahead and some kids and I thought I was at the aid station, but they said it
was another mile up down the trail. I had turned left in a big field that
dropped me off on to a service road. The next several miles would be a mix of
service roads and bike trails. Soon I was at Long Creek aid station.
I got to the aid station and decided to do some foot maintenance.
One of the biggest contributors to my DNF at Thunder Rock last year was my feet
getting torn up and me not taking care of them when I should have. So I decided
to do a little foot practice. I knew I had got a blister on my toe. So I took
off my socks popped the blister, tried to tape it up and put on my CEP
compression socks. I had not used those socks in long training, but knew the
compression would feel good. Sure enough it felt great! The aid station workers
helped me with my socks, shoes, gear, and topping off my bottles. Then I moved
on to a pure fire road section heading into Winding Stair Aid.
Long Creek to Winding Stair (Miles 41-47)
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| Photo by Carmen Horvath |
These were some of the best miles of the race as far as speed
is concerned. I was able to put down a sub 10 min mile through here and that is
on 43 mile legs. I ended up passing two people on this section that were
walking instead of running. I quickly arrived at Winding Stair, the second crew
access aid station. There I was welcomed by Brad, a Texas transplant that I had
met volunteering at Clouldland earlier this year. He took my bottles and went
to fill them up since I was planning on walking out of my way towards the aid
station. I saw Carmen and she let me look at their handy dandy laminated course
profile so I could what I had next. And just like that I was out. I think I
only spent a total of 3 mins total in that aid.
Winding Stair to Jake Bull (Miles 47-53)
Winding Stair is where you could pick up your pacer if you
had one. I saw a couple running ahead of me I assumed one was a pacer. I ended
up passing them and a couple other runners (including the guy that warned me
about cut offs at mile 30) as we finished up the fire road. I turned left onto
a bike/horse trail as the sun was about to set. I really enjoyed this section
too. The trail was soft and very tame…it winded down with some nice
switchbacks. I ran/walked this entire section fairly well and turned on my head
lamp a couple miles from the next aid station Jake Bull.
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| Last Light during GDR |
I was getting tired and I wanted some caffeine. They didn’t
have any coffee at Jake Bull but they did have some good grilled cheese
sandwiches. I sat down in the chair and had two pieces of grilled cheese, some
M&M’s and some coke. Refilled my bottles and asked how long till the next
aid. The volunteer said 9 miles…I parroted his words with my own emphasis. “9
MILES?! 9 MILES?!” That seemed like a long way this late in the race.
Jake Bull to Nimblewill Gap (Miles 53-63)
I left
the aid station and continued on some bike trails. I saw a head lamp off in the
distance and set a goal to pass him before the next aid station. Soon I saw
three headlamps behind me. I set another goal to not let them get close to me.
At one point I thought I had lost the trail and got worried that I might have
to back track. I continued running looking for a flag…then I started walking so
I could scan more carefully. I told myself I was going to go for about 30 more
seconds then I would turn back. I was just about to turn around when I saw the
pink polka dot flag around the next bend in the trail. With new found
confidence that I was going the right direction I pressed on before being
dumped out on to a paved road. There was a blinky to my right signifying that
it was the right way to go. I saw about a half mile ahead the head lamp that I
was hunting. He wasn’t moving fast and I knew I would catch him. He kept
looking around with his head lamp, he obviously thought he was lost. There were
many markers on the road to let us know that it was the right road. A car was
coming down the road so I flagged them down and asked them what road I was on.
It was the right road. I caught up to the headlamp and told him that we were
going the right way. He complained about life and the race for a bit while I
passed him then I ran on ahead so he wouldn’t think that he would catch me
back. The road soon started going up hill. Then it turned to gravel and dirt
and kept going up. I was going to try to run/hike it. I would run for 30
seconds to a minute and then hike it for the same amount of time. I did a
couple miles like that then I just got tired and decided I would hike it in to
the next aid. It was very dark now and it was starting to get cold. And to make
matters worse my headlamp did it warning blink to let me know that it was about
dead. It should not have been about dead, but there was something faulty with
it. The last 2 miles up to the aid station seemed to take forever, it climbed
and climbed and then suddenly it was there. I sat next to the fire to open my
pack and get my back up headlamp out. I immediately started shivering. I asked
for some coffee and this time they had some very nasty coffee there. I drank
it. I needed the caffeine. I took my headlamp out and put it on my lap. Then
somehow I forgot that I had taken it out. I looked in my pack and started to
panic, where is my back up? I just saw it! Didn’t I? Maybe it feel out
somewhere. I have to find it! Then I realized it was sitting in my lap. I put
it on and put on my weatherproof jacket and headed down to the finish. GDR was
almost over.
Nimblewill to Finish (Miles 63-72)
I was tired and worn out. My quads were pretty trashed from
all the down hill but I tried to run walk as much as I could being on the fire
road. About a mile after the aid station I finally warmed back up and started a
good run and hike interval. I was just getting in the groove when the course
left the fire road and turned down the Appalachian Approach Trail. Soon I was
in the park where the race would finish but the trail got difficult. Huge ankle
rolling rocks, steep down hills with roots, etc. etc. I am sure it would not
have been as bad on fresh legs but on 68 mile legs it was a pain. I could hear
a cowbell and some cheering in the valley below, I knew that someone else just
finished. It would be almost an hour longer for me to finish the last 3 miles.
I got to the parking lot of the Amicalola State Park just to be told to go
climb up the steps to the falls. Upon reaching the steps I saw a sign that
said, “Stairs: 125 Difficulty: Strenuous.” I thought 125 wasn’t that bad and
knocked them out pretty quickly pulling myself up using the hand rails. I am
sure the falls was beautiful but it was after 1 am and dark. I crossed a little bridge and saw another sign, “Stairs:
425 Difficulty: Strenuous.”
I thought…you have got to be kidding me. I pulled
myself up all those steps tripping a few times until I got to the top. From
there I ran down the road till I joined the Creek trail. Although short, and
probably easy in the day light on a short run, it was very difficult and
technical. I basically hiked tripping over every root and rock in my path. Finally
I made a turn and jogged to the creek that I would have to cross to reach the
finish line. There was a small group of people there waiting at the finish. I
was most thankful to see my wife waiting there to give me a hug, a warm
blanket, and eventually a ride home. GDR was done. 72 miles in 17hrs 48 mins
and 40 seconds.
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| Photo by Amber Pharr |
Overall thoughts:
I was pleased with my performance. I could have done a few
things better but I did a lot of things very well to have a good day. I was
super pleased with my training. Good hard training makes for good fun racing.
GDR was definitely a tough course, probably the toughest I
had done. The course was beautiful. The volunteers were some of the best I had
ever experienced from aid station to aid station. The race had some draw backs…it
involved zero swag. We got a shirt and a engraved rail road spike. A race with
this much hype deserves to have a better finisher award. The finish line was
also lack luster. I know that it was a long time since the first guy finished
over 6 hours before I did, but there wasn’t much for the finisher by way of
food or drink.
I am very thankful for all those that continue to help me
reach my running goals. My wife does an amazing job encouraging me and allowing
me the time to train. She also went out of her way to bring all the kids to the
finish and to drive me home at 230 am so that I could teach and preach that
morning. Thank you so much Amber. I am also thankful for the countless friends
who gave me words of encouragement. I am especially thankful for the hours and
miles that I got to spend with the GDR crew. I am proud of each of them in their
performance. Holland didn’t have the day he wanted but still finished strong.
Franklin had the day he perhaps didn’t expect and finished in 6th
overall. Jeremiah had a rough time but toughed it out a lot longer than most
mere mortals would. Nick and Josh did something that hardly never happens; they
ran the entire race together, reminiscent of the
two soldiers that did WSER 100 together in Dean’s book Ultramarathon Man.
