The Lookout Mountain 50 miler was my first 50 miler back in 2012. At the time I was living in South Carolina and not able to run on trails as much, nor get in as much climbing in training as I do now. Needless to say I was excited about this race and my chances to have a good day. I love Lookout Mtn. It is my favorite trail system in the area with so much to offer and great views. I had run parts of the course multiple times, except for the loop through Long Branch. I had devised a pace chart based off my 2012 performance that included an A Goal of 9:05, B Goal of 9:40, and a PR Goal of sub 10:22.
The morning of the race was one of the coldest mornings we have had so far this “winter.” Dusty Jameson had stayed the night at my house and the two of us left about 6:30 for a 7:30 start time. Although I was a little bundled up before the start, I decided to wear a hat, gloves (I wear plastic latex like gloves under my wool gloves when it is really cold. These gloves make a little sweat suit for my hands that keeps them warm, while the wool keeps the cool air off of the), my Brooks Sherpa 2in1 shorts, a UnderArmor thermal long-sleeved base layer and a Fleet Feet Sports Chattanooga shirt, Sockwell socks, and Hoka Challenger ATR shoes.. It was about 30 degrees at start and I got in the mid front back just in time to hear Randy count us down to 3…2…1…Go!
Covenant to Cravens House (0 to 8 miles)
The race starts at Covenant College, a small private Presbyterian school in Lookout Mountain Georgia. Too help thin out the crowd the course goes along campus sidewalks and roads for about a half mile before diving down the mountain on the single track trail that leads to the Ochs Gateway. Adolph S. Ochs moved to Chattanooga in his teens and purchased the Chattanooga Times at age 19. When he was in his 30’s he purchased a then nearly bankrupt paper called The New York Times. By using some of the same strategies that he did in Chattanooga, The New York Times began to flourish. Although he moved to New York to work for his new larger paper, Ochs loved Chattanooga and especially Lookout Mountain. He purchased the land that surrounds the Point from the Whiteside family and later sold it to the government for use as part of the National Park and Battlefields. The first 8 mile of the race were all on land that Mr. Ochs used to own.
Leaving the Start Line
From Ochs Gateway the trail becomes the Bluff Trail. This is probably my favorite 4.5 miles of trail anywhere in the area. It is just technical enough to have to hop around rocks and roots. There are beautiful panoramic views on the exposed bluff. On the other side there are large out cropping including my favorite called “Giants Niche.” Part of my strategy was to be in the mid front pack for this part of the race so that I would not get stuck in a train or conga line of runners and not be able to pass if I wanted. At about two mile in I decided to take my first sip of water. I was wearing my UD PB Vest. As I pulled out the left front bottle, a couple of things that I had stuffed beside it fell out. So I had to stop and pick them up, and the 4 guys that were following behind me quickly passed. One of the guys was Dusty. Together we passed the group of three and ran together for about the next mile. He was remarking about how beautiful the view was off of the bluff, then a few seconds later he cracked his ankle on a rock and twisted it. He told me to run on. He would catch up to me a few hours later and have a real good day for his first 50 mile trail race.
The Bluff trail runs along the west brow of the mountain towards the point of the mountain. At the point there are stairs to your right that lead up to the National Park and an awesome overlook of Moccasin bend and Chattanooga. Shortly past the steps are some plaques about the hotel that once stood in that area and the “Battle above the Clouds” that took place during the Civil War. Passing the point the trail becomes the Mountain Beautiful Trail. This single track trail goes below the east brow and switch backs down the mountain some. You have a choice to turn left and go down to Cravens house or turn right and continue on the Mountain Beautiful Trail. We take the right path that has another pair of descending switch back. At this point I heard some people talking behind me, but they weren’t speaking English and I was having trouble picking up on what they were saying. I let them pass. It was a duo of Spaniards that I would leap frog with most of the day until finally passing them at mile 35. The trail goes under the Incline Railway that connects St. Elmo station to the station on top of the mountain. Then it takes some switch backs to climb back up the mountain some before eventually switchbacking down to the Guild-Hardy Trail. This is a wide gravel trail that has a steady down ward grade. The trail was once the railway bed for the railway that meandered up the mountain from St. Elmo to the Rock City area. At one of the switchbacks of the old rail way the turn was so sharp that the train had to go out to a dead end and then the tracks were switched so that the train would continue up facing the opposite direction.
My hope was to get to Cravens house in 1hr 20 mins…I got there in 1hr and 17 mins. I was 3 mins ahead of my A Goal pace. Cravens house is an excellent place to get a great view of the city and also to begin a hike of Lookout Mountain. It was a house built by Robert Cravens that was used as a hospital during the Civil War. After the death of his widow, the house and the land were deeded to the National Park. I took no time at the Aid Station except to fill my one water bottle. I was feeling good and ready to bomb down to the Nature Center.
Cravens House to Nature Center (8-14.8miles)
Photo by Alan Thomas
Leaving the Cravens House aid station I saw someone taking pictures. I assumed it was just a race photographer, but instead it was a member from church Alan Thomas. It was good to see him there and at Covenant a couple hours later. The trail from Cravens begins on a double track trail to the “Rifle Pits.” This is supposedly where during the Civil War Union Troops erected small stone walls and dug pits to shoot their rifles from. However there is debate about whether these are much older stone walls built by the native Americans that once lived and fought in the area. Either way, this downhill section of trail is very technical in spots. I had trained on my footwork on this trail several times so that I could run it fast come race day. Thankfully I was able to do just that. The trail then joins the Guild Trail again for a little over a mile. This wide leaf and gravel filled trail continues to slope downward. Off to your right, if you look real close you can see the remnants of a Civilian Conservation Corp Camp (alliteration galore). There is a small plaque telling about the Corp and how they built most of the trails that we would be running on for the next 12 miles or so. After making a bend on the Guild Trail we make a sharp left to go on the Jura trail that goes further down the mountain. This single track trail is pretty quick and easy in this direction, and meets a trail intersection that leads us to the Lightmill trail and Susan’s Curves which are part of the Reflection Riding trail system. These are wide trails with lots of leaves, but makes for easy running. I was moving along very fast at this point in the race, at least for me. Even with the easy running, I somehow rolled my left ankle fairly bad. I had to walk for about a min. It was the same one I had rolled in training a few days before. I would tighten my shoe at the next aid station and I thought the ankle would be okay. Once I got down to the Nature Center area the course turns left on to the gravel road. Usually it goes down to a muddy trail next to Lookout Creek, but for whatever reason we stay high and dry. From Cravens to Nature Center I wanted to run a 50 min split, but I ended up running it in 47 mins, faster than I ever dreamed I could run it. I am now 6 whole mins ahead of pace. I was beginning to think this was going to be a great day, and that I might break 9 hrs for a total time. But I had only gone about 14-15 miles…and I had a big climb ahead of me.
Nature Center to Skyuka Spring (14.8-19 miles)
The trail is all single track from the Nature Center to Skyuka Springs. There is a decent climb up to the Skyuka trail. I had been looking forward to the climbing because I feel like I am pretty good at that. I passed a few people in the first mile or two up to the main trail. From there it was a rolling downhill run to Skyuka. The initial climb took a little more out of me than I thought it would. I had been fueling according to schedule well. Every 4 miles I was taking either half a pack of Shot Bloks or one pack of GU chews. I also had drunk over 2 bottles of water with Tailwind in it. But even with this I could feel the salt building up on my face and knew I should take some salt. However, I couldn’t find the baggy of pills in my pack and didn’t want to stop to take it off. I was still running everything but the steeper inclines. I would watch the guy ahead of me and see where he walked and decided I would try to run 20 more steps past where he stopped. I ended up passing a few other runners with this strategy. I got out another pack of Shot Bloks knowing that I should down them before the climb after Skyuka Springs. The first year I did this race, I didn’t even notice the Springs down below the trail. Since then I had been down there several times. Skyuka is a fresh water spring that comes out from under the rocks of the bottom of Lookout Mtn. There is a big sign that says, “Non-Potable water.” Therefore I had never tried to drink the water before. But one day I heard from Nick Horvath that he had tried it on a hot summer run and that it was great water. Since then I have never been afraid to fill my bottle up there. I wouldn’t need to today, but the water there is great. I reached Skyuka Springs at 2:46 into the race. I had hoped to make it there by 2:45 for my A Goal pace. So I had lost a little time on this section. However now I would start the major climb of the day.
Skyuka Springs to Covenant College (19-22.5 miles)
The section from Skyuka to Covenant is 3.5 miles at a steady climb of nearly 2000 ft of gain. There basically are two trails to get to the top, John Smart and Jackson Gap/Spring trails. I had run this section multiple times in training; always knowing that one day it would count. I knew where to run at and when to hike. My plan was to run from the sign at Skyuka through the first powerline cut and then power hike until I recovered. Then I would run again for as long as I could, then for 20 more counts before power hiking again. I was doing great until I got to the Jackson Springs near the top (also said to be “Non-Potable” but I have never tried these waters before). Once I hiked past the springs, I felt tired…blah. I decided that I would walk some…and I ended up walking about .5 miles. Even with my walking at the end I made it up from Skyuka in 47:34. My A Goal was 45 mins, my B Goal 48 mins. I was back to Covenant in 3:33 mins, just 3 mins over my A Goal. I had run the first 22.5 miles of the course in a pace of 9:28 per mile. In 2012 it had taken me 4hrs. I should have been pumped. I should have been ecstatic that I was hitting my times with near perfection. I should have gotten my food, filled my bottles, taken some salt and headed out. In Ultras as in life, there is a lot of “I should haves.” But instead I sat down…I should NOT have sat down. The highlight of sitting down was that I got to see my family. This was the first ultra that my entire family had the opportunity to see me on the course. It was wonderful, beyond special, to see them. Amber helped me get my stuff and the kids asked questions and gave hugs. Kherington said I had something all over my face…it was salt. Even in the cooler temps I was sweating a lot. Here was a perfect opportunity to get some salt in me, and I didn’t do it. I sat there and enjoyed my family and a 6 inch sub sandwich. It may not have been the best race strategy, but I loved getting to sit there with them for a few very long minutes.
Coming back into Covenant. Photo by Alan Thomas
Covenant to Lula Lake (22.5-29.9)
This section stunk. It wasn’t hard. It wasn’t technical. It was downhill. It was on some wider trails. It was a low point. The thoughts of going sub 9 hrs quickly slipped away as I jogged out of the sight of my family. The jog quickly turned to a trot, then to a walk as I was on some of the cross-country trails of Covenant College. I knew the trail would get small and muddier once we got on the Browlow
Enjoying time with the family.
trail. That was even more of an excuse to walk. As people would come up behind me, I would feign feeling good and running, until they asked to pass and then I would walk again. The negative story began to speak louder in my head. I try to tell myself positive stories, about what I am doing well, or what I am going to do well at certain points in the race. Going up the mountain on John Smart, my positive stories were loud and clear. When I bombed down the technical Rifle Pits at mile 8, the positive stories were almost screaming for other people to hear. Now as I was approaching the Powerline Cut with a minor climb before the double track trail down to Lula, the negative stories were telling me how bad this race stunk. How that I wasn’t going to reach my goals. How that I should have trained harder. How that I should have lost weight. How that I should think about whether I should even do this Ultra thing any more. I was tired. But I wasn’t worn out. I was a little dehydrated only have peed once the entire day. My electrolytes were a little out of balance because I hadn’t had any salt. But most of all, my head wasn’t in the game. The most important part of Ultra running is the mental game, and I was losing.
Right before leaving the Powerline Cut, Dusty caught back up with me. I was so glad that he was having a good day and had recovered from his sprain. He would go on to complete his first 50 mile race in 10:06. A few mins later as I was slowly jogging down the trail, I heard a voice yell towards me about 50 yards away, “Hey David! You should be a lot farther ahead of me than right now!” At first I didn’t know who it was. There was no way that it could be who I thought it was…but as he got closer I realized it was Nick Horvath. I was shocked to see him. A few weeks ago we were out running a 13ish mile run at Enterprise south, when he hurt his knee. Since then he had only one long run and even that was painful for him. So I expected him to be towards the back pack, and not where he was breathing down my neck. I stopped for him, because I wasn’t running well, and started trotting in front of him. Nick is an extremely positive guy to have out on a long trail run. We had shared many miles and many memories and miseries out in the woods. He asked me how I was, and I told him I wasn’t doing great now. He said, “Well let’s just have fun and enjoy the day” (easier said than done for me, who was still in a bad place mentally). I enjoyed running with him and another guy named Connor for about a mile, when I fell for the first time of the day. It was stupid. I don’t know what I tripped on but I hit the ground pretty hard. They got in front of me and I started following behind them. About 5 mins later on a downhill section, I fell again! Nick and Connor kept trucking on, and I decided to start walking again.
The wide trail is covered with leaves about shoe deep. There is the constant sound of rustling underfoot. Soon however you also hear water rushing. I was approaching Rock Creek, the same creek that will feed the falls in a few miles. The water was up, but not impassable. I was able to get across without getting my feet wet. I knew this was creek over half way to the next aid station, and I was trying to use this knowledge to my advantage. This 7 mile stretch felt so terribly long. I eventually came out of the woods to cross Lula Lake Road to enter the Lula Lake Land Trust via “Water Bandit’s Pass” (this is the name I gave the area behind the guard rail of Lula Lake Rd where I hit a cooler of water one morning before a long trail run with Nick. This was where we were to refill out bottles after 15 miles. When we got there, someone had stolen my water cooler).
Lula Lake Falls
Lula Lake Land Trust is a privately owned area that has trails that have taken the place of an old railway bed. There are also single and double track trails in the area. To help protect the land, it is only open to the public on the first and last Saturday of each month. The trail goes down to the main parking area/field and then crosses over a beautiful footbridge to the other side of Rock Creek. The trail then turns left into a single track trail, leaving the wide Middle Trail. I was running a little better by this point but still wasn’t feeling it. I just wanted to get to Lula, get some coke and salt. The trail pops back on to the other side of the Middle trail and then turns right. This was new because usually we would turn left and join the Ford Trail, then a winding narrow single track trail next to the creek. I am still not sure why the course change. Shortly after this I find myself at the aid station ready to refuel and feel better. I have to get better or today will just be a waste. I hadn’t checked my pace chart in a long time and figured I was doomed. After getting several salt pills, a few shots of coke, and getting the rocks out of my shoes (Samuel Hammonds so nicely helped me untie my shoes), I got out my phone to text Amber and let her know my location. To my shock, after leaving the aid station my race time was 5:11. I was leaving right when I had hoped to be there for my B Goal time of Sub 9:40. Suddenly the positive stories started to pipe up again.
Lula Lake to Long Branch (29.9-34)
Ropes on the High Adventure Trail
Leaving the Lula aid station with new found zeal, I followed along the gravel road/old rail bed to the view of Lula Falls at my left. This is one of the well-hidden gems of the Chattanooga area. I then turned right to climb up the High Adventure trail. This is not a running trail but a hiking trail for me, which includes some ropes to help pull you up to the top on to the Lula Bluff trail. From the Bluff trail you can look out to your left and see the little community of Flintstone, GA. It is not the city of Chattanooga, but Flintstone is cool to see, because many of the members from church live in that little town. Also along the Bluff trail I saw the leaders. I tried to cheer each of them on as they passed. It was especially good to see Nathan Holland. Even though he was not having his best day, he had a big smile and words of encouragement for me.
The next big change from the original course was next. Usually, we would continue on the bluff trail till it ends, but this time we turned right on to a single track trail called the Jedi Trail. We took this trail till we hit Ovenbird then back on the Middle trail for the third time. The rest of this section is all narrow single track on the F4 trail. It is named such because it was a trail rebuilt after an F4 tornado ripped up the original trail. It is an awesome little trail that runs along the creek and above it. After a couple miles it climbs up to turn right next to the “trash house” on to Nickajack Road. You run along the road for a whopping .3 miles before entering the parking area for the Long Branch Trail head of the Clouldland Connector. We would only be on the Connector for less than half a mile, but if we were to take it then you can eventually go all the way out to Cloudland Canyon. Lookout Mtn is blessed with miles and miles of trails.
My baby girl walking with me to the aid station.
Climbing up the hill to the aid station, my family was again waiting on me. Kherington held my hand as I went to get my water refilled, my socks changed, and some salt pills. Steve Carter was heading up the aid station and provided some much needed encouragement for those of us that were about to start “the loop.”
The Long Branch Loop (34-38.2)
This loop is no fun, but I knew that going in. The trail is single track the whole way and goes around a small community of houses then out towards High Point (the highest point of the mountain) then back to run beside Long Branch creek. There is not much to report about this loop other than it is longer than it should be. I was very focused though on continuing to run stronger. Amber had told me that Nick was only a couple mins ahead of me and that he said he would run the last part with me if I wanted. So I pressed on trying to make up the few mins. I caught up to the Spaniards again and passed them for the last time on the big climb in the loop. Eventually a young runner tucked in behind me as we ran along the creek. He had just a 20 oz plastic Walmart spring water bottle in his hand. As he would run he would crush it in his hands, that got kind of old. He also kept tripping and falling over the roots behind me. The trail was beautiful but it was so narrow with the trees everywhere that sometimes you would have to make 10 quick turns just to run 20 yards. I eventually caught up to Nick about a mile from the aid station. He was power hiking with Jeremiah Lackey, another running buddy, who had twisted both of his ankles. Nick selflessly decided to hike in the next 13 or so miles with Lackey to help him out and get him to the finish.
Once I got back to the aid station, Amber was holding Linkoln who had fallen asleep. She pointed me over to where my stuff was so I could grab some food and change into my RunItFast shirt. Jobie Williams, an awesome trail runner, photographer, and Christian man, was there and he gave me a few words of encouragement. Amber walked over, carrying Linkoln, to see if needed anything else. Amber did an amazing job helping me. She truly deserves a medal for all that she was able to do. The night before she played hostess as we had guest in our house. That morning she took care of the company and got 3 kids ready for a day in the woods. Drove them all to the race course, had my stuff ready for me, and gave great encouragement. The last time I saw her at Long Branch she not only was crewing me but was also holding our 30+ lbs 2 year old. To top it all off, she is also pregnant. To call her superwoman is an understatement, I am just thankful that she’s mine.
Long Branch to Lula Lake (38.2 42.5)
I now was truly a man on a mission. I had overcome my earlier demons and was running well again. There is a great mental boost after leaving the loop. Everything left is what you have already done, just in the other direction. I ran along with a couple others as we worked are way back through the F4 trail. This time it was two-way traffic for a while as some were still making their way out to the loop. It seemed like in no time I was back at the ropes of High Adventure and then down to the Aid Station. I got out my pace chart while drinking a few cups of coke and taking some more salt pills. I was doing well on time. In fact I had run this section over 3 mins faster than I had earlier today. I knew that if I wanted to make it back for a race time of 9:40 that I had to run the next 7 miles in a 13:30 pace. Even though it was late in the race and the trail back was mostly uphill, that pace would be very doable.
Lula Lake to FINISH (42.5-50)
Leaving Lula I set my watch to the average lap pace, so that I could know how close I was to the 13:30 mile. The first mile out of Lula was in 11 mins, that gave me plenty of buffer to get to the finish line. I ran and hiked and ran and hiked. I kept moving forward and didn’t stop moving till I reached the top. By the time I got to the Powerline Cut the sun was beginning to set on the other side of the mountain, but I would have plenty of time to make it back before having to use my head lamp. I made it back to the Covenant College cross country trails and I could see the finish line less than a half mile away. I ran up the next little climb and to the rope light and started to Whoop (so the kids would know I was getting close). I crossed the finish line in 9:33:56, well under my B Goal pace. I was tired and hurting, but thankful to collect my medal and to see my family waiting to congratulate me.
FINISH LINE! Photo by Ashleigh Jameson
Some Takeaways from the race—
1. I am beyond blessed to be able to do this crazy sport. I have a supportive family. I have a beautiful area to run in. I have been given a body that can endure punishment. I am very thankful that I can be an Ultra Runner.
2. Randy, Kris, and all the Wild Trails crew do a great job with their races. The trail was in its best condition. They had cleared trail and even removed leaves from some areas, like at the rifle pits. The volunteers were wonderful and encouraging. The swag was great! We got super soft race shirt, a comfy hoodie, a “chocolate milk” cup, and a medal. Plus it was an awesome race experience. If you ever have an opportunity to run a Wild Trails race…Do it!
3. No matter how many times I train on John Smart, it never gets any easier. That is a tough little trail. I need to train on it more.
4. Take the 1min 30secs to find your salt pills. I think that if I would have taken salt earlier, I may have had an even better day. But because it was in a weird spot in my pack I didn’t take it, nor took the 90secs to find it.
5. My family is awesome. Before this race and many other races I told Amber to come if she could but that I wouldn’t be depending on her. I know that with the 3 kids and being pregnant that she may not be able to get to the aid stations. I let her know that I wanted to hopefully see her at the finish if nothing else. However she once again did so much. As much as I try to tell her that I wasn’t depending on her, I usually end up depending on her. I depend on her to give me time to train. I depend on her to give me encouragement when I am in a slump. And I definitely depend on her or at least the thought of her and the kids when I am running these ultras. Thank you Amber for all you do in helping me in all aspects of life.
Post Race Care
